Bihar’s Lost Recipes: A Culinary Journey into Forgotten Flavours

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Bihar is a land of timeless traditions, cultural richness, and a deeply rooted food heritage that dates back to ancient India. Yet, amid the rising popularity of litti-chokha and sattu-based delicacies, many traditional Bihari recipes have silently slipped through the cracks of time, lost in the whirlwind of modernity, urban migration, and changing lifestyles.

This blog is a humble attempt to bring back those forgotten flavours that once graced our grandmothers’ kitchens — recipes cooked over slow wood fires, served with love, and remembered long after the last bite.


1. Kudrumi Bharta (Spiny Gourd Mash)

The humble kudrumi, or spiny gourd, was once a seasonal staple in Bihari households. Cooked with mustard oil, green chilies, garlic, and a pinch of salt, this bharta (mash) carried a bold, rustic flavour. Today, it's rare to find even the vegetable in urban markets, let alone the dish itself. Reviving kudrumi bharta is not just about taste, but about embracing the rhythms of seasonal eating.


2. Khesari Dal Ki Khichdi

Before the controversy around khesari dal (Lathyrus sativus) led to its ban in many areas, it was a beloved staple in Bihar’s poorer districts. It was cheap, nutritious, and filling. A spicy khichdi made with khesari dal, rice, garlic, and mustard oil was a regular winter meal. While the dal’s usage is still debated, the recipe deserves a spot in food history.


3. Thekua in Its Original Form

Yes, we still see thekua during Chhath Puja, but did you know there were once several versions of it? Some used coarse gur (jaggery) syrup, some were made with sattu, and some included fennel seeds soaked overnight for a more intense aroma. Today’s market versions are often dry, hard, and mass-produced — far from the soft, chewy, home-cooked thekuas of old.


4. Chilka Roti

Chilka roti, made from soaked and ground rice and lentils, was once a common breakfast item in Bihari homes. Crisp on the outside and soft inside, it was traditionally paired with spicy chokha or curd. Think of it as Bihar’s version of dosa — but heartier and simpler. Today, it survives only in memory, replaced by bread and parathas.


5. Paanch-Phoran Tarkari

Not many know that Bihar had a medley vegetable dish — lightly sautéed with paanch-phoran (a five-spice mix of mustard, fenugreek, cumin, nigella, and fennel). Seasonal vegetables like kohra (pumpkin), parwal (pointed gourd), and jimikand (yam) were tossed together in mustard oil, making for a mildly spiced but flavourful sabzi. It was food that celebrated simplicity, seasonal produce, and Ayurvedic balance.


6. Makhana Payas (Not Kheer)

We’ve all heard of makhana kheer, but what about payas — a slow-cooked, cardamom-infused dessert where puffed fox nuts were first roasted in ghee, crushed slightly, and then simmered in thick milk till they absorbed the richness? Payas was creamier, had a lingering aroma, and was often sweetened with palm jaggery instead of sugar. Sadly, this decadent version has almost vanished from kitchens.


7. Anarsa from Mithila

Anarsa, a festive delicacy in Mithila, was made with fermented rice flour and jaggery, then deep-fried to a golden perfection. Traditionally, it required patience — the rice had to be soaked, sun-dried, and ground fresh. The dough was rested for days before frying. What emerged was a sweet with a delicate crunch outside and a melt-in-mouth center. Today, fast versions skip the fermentation, losing the very soul of the dish.


Why These Recipes Matter

Food is not just nourishment — it's identity, memory, and legacy. The lost recipes of Bihar are not merely about taste; they are windows into how our ancestors lived, celebrated seasons, used local produce, and healed through food. In a world of fusion dishes and instant meals, reviving these old recipes is a way to reclaim a slower, richer, and more meaningful way of eating.

Let’s document our family recipes before they fade into oblivion. Talk to your elders, ask about dishes they remember from their childhood, and try recreating them. Share your experiences, photos, and stories. Together, we can build a digital smriti thali — a plate of memories that no one can erase.

Have you heard of or tasted any of these dishes? Do you remember a forgotten Bihari recipe from your childhood? Share it in the comments — let’s rediscover Bihar’s culinary treasures, one lost recipe at a time.

Neerja Bhatnagar

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